‘Seductive hotel with seriously good dining.’
The splendid Elizabethan manor house near Honiton stands in 3,500 panoramic acres of east Devon — a view the dining room windows don't stint on.
Hadleigh Barrett has Combe's own hens' eggs and organic fruit and veg at his disposal, with fish from Lyme Bay and pedigree local meats. But he looks further afield for culinary inspiration, to Morocco for a starter of spiced quail with salted lemon couscous, sweet potato purée and almonds. Brill may be ornately coated in foie gras, alongside roasted artichokes and girolles in Madeira sauce, or there may be roast loin and suet pudding of lamb with crushed roots and Savoy.
Form an orderly queue for chocolate and peanut délice with salted caramel and chocolate sorbet, or take a West Country cheese tour.
A tiny, painstakingly chosen list of outstanding wines is a model of informative concision that will change seasonally, starting at around £25.
The Good Food Guide 2015
Combe House Devon
Cooking score: 5.